The manufacturing journey
Six stages from your design to dispatch
The same route for every order. Your quotation sets out the timing for your project.
Stage 1: Design submission
Send your design, tech pack, reference photos or sample, with quantities and target market.
You provide
- Sketches, tech pack or reference photos (a physical sample helps most)
- Target quantity per style and colour
- Size range and target market
- Target price range, if you have one
We do
- Acknowledge the enquiry and confirm what was received
- Ask for anything missing before reviewing
Decisions
- OEM (your finished design), ODM (developed with us) or private label
Affects cost and complexity
- The more complete the brief, the fewer assumptions in the quotation
Next: Your brief goes to technical and material review.
Stage 2: Technical and material review
We check construction, materials, sole and last options and flag anything that is not feasible.
You provide
- Answers to our technical questions
- Material preferences, or approval of suggested alternatives
We do
- Review construction, last, sole unit and material availability
- Flag anything that is not realistic at your price or quantity
- Suggest stock components where they meet the brief
Decisions
- Existing or new last
- Stock or custom outsole
- Material grades and colours
Affects cost and complexity
- Custom lasts and outsole moulds
- Specialist or slow-to-source materials
Next: We prepare a written quotation and development plan.
Stage 3: Quotation and development planning
A written quotation covering unit price, MOQ, tooling, sample charges and the development plan.
You provide
- Agreement on the quotation and development plan
- Logo artwork and packaging requirements
We do
- Quote unit price, MOQ, tooling and sample charges in writing
- Set out the development plan and agreed delivery terms (Incoterms)
Decisions
- Order quantity and size split
- Branding and packaging
- Sample types required
Affects cost and complexity
- Quantity, colourways and size run
- Tooling for lasts, moulds, dies and logos
Next: Sample development starts once the quotation is accepted.
Stage 4: Sample development and approval
Proto, fit and size-set samples, refined with your written comments until a sample is approved.
You provide
- Written, photographed comments on each sample
- Fit-test feedback on your core size
- Final approval of the pre-production sample
We do
- Make samples on the agreed last and materials
- Apply your comments in the next round
- Record the approved sample and specification as the bulk standard
Decisions
- Fit, materials, colours and finish
- Approval of the pre-production sample
Affects cost and complexity
- Each revision round adds time
- New colours or materials after approval restart parts of sampling
Sample types explained
- Proto sample
- Checks design, proportions and construction
- Fit sample
- Checks fit on the agreed last in your core size
- Size set
- Checks grading across the size run
- Salesman sample
- Final colours for selling, if needed
- Pre-production sample
- Approved as the standard for bulk
Next: The approved sample becomes the reference for bulk production.
Stage 5: Bulk manufacturing
Materials are booked and pairs are cut, stitched, lasted, soled and finished to the approved sample.
You provide
- Order confirmation and size breakdown
- Final packaging artwork and barcodes
We do
- Book materials and components
- Cut, stitch, last, attach soles and finish
- Run in-line checks at each stage
Decisions
- Any changes must be agreed in writing before production starts
Affects cost and complexity
- Material lead times
- Changes after materials are booked
Next: Finished pairs go to final inspection.
Stage 6: Quality checks and dispatch
Final inspection against the approved sample, then packing, labelling and dispatch on agreed terms.
You provide
- Shipping instructions and destination
- Details of your inspection agency, if you use one
We do
- Inspect finished pairs against the approved sample
- Pack, label and mark cartons to your specification
- Prepare shipping documents for the agreed terms
Decisions
- Delivery terms and shipping method (agreed in the quotation)
Affects cost and complexity
- Shipping method and destination
- Third-party inspection, if required
Next: Goods ship. Repeat orders can start from the approved specification.
OEM, ODM and private label
Choose how much development you need
You have the design
OEM
You supply the design and specification; we produce to the approved sample.
What we need: Tech pack or sample, materials list, size run
OEM guideYou have an idea
ODM
We develop the design with you from a brief, mood board, references or one of our reference styles.
What we need: Sketches or references, target price, target market
ODM guideYou have a brand
Private label
Your brand on a developed style, with your labels, branding and packaging.
What we need: Logo artwork, packaging needs, preferred styles
Private-label branding
Buyer guides for your starting point
Detailed guides for new brands, established brands, OEM production and ODM development.
- 01Starting a new footwear brandYou have a brand idea or a first collection planned, but have not manufactured footwear before.Read the guide
- 02Established footwear brandsYou already sell footwear and have specifications, approved samples or tooling.Read the guide
- 03OEM footwear manufacturingYou have a finished design, a tech pack or a sample you own the rights to.Read the guide
- 04ODM footwear developmentYou have an idea, a mood board or a reference style, but not a finished technical design.Read the guide
The manufacturing process
Twelve stages from first enquiry to shipment
Read the one-line summary of each stage, or open it for what happens, what you approve and what affects time. Which operations are carried out in-house and which with specialist partner workshops depends on the construction, and is confirmed for your project in the quotation.
Development
01Initial buyer inquiryYou send your design, references or a reference style, with quantities and market.
What happens
- Your RFQ and files are received and acknowledged
- Missing information is requested before review
You approve
- Nothing yet: confirm the brief is complete
Affects time
- How complete the brief is
- How quickly questions are answered
02Design and technical reviewConstruction, last, sole and materials are checked for feasibility at your price and quantity.
What happens
- Design reviewed for construction and components
- Stock components identified where they meet the brief
- Risks and unrealistic points flagged in writing
You approve
- Answers to technical questions
- Any proposed changes to the design
Affects time
- Design complexity
- Whether new tooling is needed
03Material and component selectionUpper materials, linings, soles, trims and hardware are chosen and swatched.
What happens
- Materials sourced to specification
- Swatches and colour references prepared
- Supplier minimums and lead times checked
You approve
- Material swatches and colours
- Any substitutions
Affects time
- Material availability
- Custom colours or specialist materials
What is controlled
- Colour, thickness and grain against approved swatches
- Supplier minimums per colour
- Restricted-substance requirements for your market
04Last and pattern developmentThe last sets fit; the pattern turns the design into cut pieces graded across sizes.
What happens
- Existing last selected, or a new last developed
- Design lines drawn on the taped last and flattened into pattern pieces
- Pattern graded across the size run
You approve
- Last choice and toe shape
- Fit base for your market
Affects time
- New last versus existing last
- Number of size groups and fittings
What is controlled
- Length, girth and toe shape for your market
- Panel lines, eyelet positions and collar height
- Allowances for lasting, folding and overlaps
05Sample costing and developmentSample charges and the development plan are quoted, then the first samples are made.
What happens
- Sample and tooling charges quoted in writing
- Proto sample made on the agreed last and materials
You approve
- Sample charges and development plan
- Start of sampling
Affects time
- Tooling needed for samples
- Material arrival for sampling
06Prototype evaluation and revisionsPrototypes are reviewed, fit-tested and corrected until a pre-production sample is approved.
What happens
- Your written and photographed comments applied in each round
- Fit sample and size set checked
- Approved sample and specification recorded as the bulk standard
You approve
- Each sample round
- The pre-production sample (sealed standard)
Affects time
- Number of revision rounds
- Design changes between rounds
Production
07Bulk production planningThe order is confirmed, materials are booked and production is scheduled.
What happens
- Order and size breakdown confirmed
- Materials and components booked
- Production schedule set out in the order confirmation
You approve
- Order confirmation
- Final packaging artwork and barcodes
Affects time
- Material lead times
- Order size and colour split
- Changes after materials are booked
08Material preparation and cuttingMaterials are inspected and upper components cut by die or by hand.
What happens
- Incoming materials inspected
- Components cut with attention to hide quality and stretch
- Pieces matched in pairs
You approve
- Nothing new: production follows the approved sample
Affects time
- Material arrival
- Number of components per pair
What is controlled
- Best leather areas for visible panels
- Stretch direction along the shoe
- Left and right pieces matched for colour and texture
09Upper stitching and assemblyComponents are skived, folded, reinforced and stitched into finished uppers (closing).
What happens
- Edges skived and folded
- Reinforcements and linings attached
- Uppers stitched and checked in line
You approve
- Nothing new
Affects time
- Number of panels and stitch lines
- Decorative stitching and embroidery
What is controlled
- Stitch length, tension and alignment
- Reinforcement at eyelets and stress points
- Clean seam ends and edges
10Lasting and sole attachmentUppers are pulled over the last, then the sole is cemented, stitched or moulded on.
What happens
- Upper lasted to the insole board
- Sole and upper surfaces prepared
- Sole attached by the agreed construction
You approve
- Nothing new
Affects time
- Construction method (cemented, stitched, injected or vulcanised)
- Sole availability
What is controlled
- Even tension and symmetric toe and heel
- Toe puff and heel counter correctly placed
- Surface roughing and priming before bonding
- No open bond lines or adhesive marks
Delivery
11Finishing and quality inspectionShoes are cleaned, finished and inspected against the approved sample.
What happens
- Last removed, sock liners and laces fitted
- Cleaning and finishing
- Final inspection; your inspection agency can attend
You approve
- Inspection results, if you use a third-party agency
Affects time
- Finishing complexity
- Third-party inspection booking
What is controlled
- Pairing, symmetry and size marking
- Bonding, stitching and finish
- Key measurements per size
12Packaging and shipmentPairs are boxed, labelled and packed into marked cartons, and shipped on agreed terms.
What happens
- Boxing, labelling and carton packing
- Shipping documents prepared
- Goods handed over on the agreed Incoterms
You approve
- Shipping instructions
- Shipping documents
Affects time
- Shipping method and destination
- Packaging supply
What is controlled
- Box labels and barcodes
- Carton assortment and shipping marks
- Your branded packaging and inserts
Materials and customisation
Materials, constructions and branding
General options across our categories. Each reference style page lists the materials and constructions suited to that style, and availability is confirmed in your quotation.
Upper materials
| Material | Typical use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Full-grain and corrected-grain leather | Casual, formal, boots | Durable and shapes to the foot; grade and finish affect price |
| Suede and nubuck | Casual, sneakers, boots | Soft, matt surface; needs care with colour matching |
| Synthetic leather and microfibre | Sneakers, casual, motorsport | Consistent and lighter; quality varies widely by grade |
| Mesh, knit and technical textiles | Running, lightweight sneakers | Breathable and light; knit uppers need specialist partners |
| Canvas and woven textiles | Vulcanised and casual shoes | Light and economical; print and colour flexibility |
| Rubber and EVA (moulded) | Flip-flops and slippers | Footbed and strap moulded or cut from sheet |
Sole materials
| Material | Feel | Wear | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| Rubber | Firm, grippy | Excellent | Heavier |
| EVA | Soft, cushioned | Moderate | Very light |
| PU | Firm-cushioned | Good | Medium |
| TPU | Hard | Excellent | Medium |
| Crepe | Soft, springy | Moderate | Medium |
| Leather | Firm, classic | Moderate | Medium |
Construction methods
| Construction | How it works | Typical footwear |
|---|---|---|
| Cemented | Sole bonded to the lasted upper with adhesive | Most casual and fashion shoes |
| Strobel | Upper stitched to a fabric sock, sole cemented | Sneakers and flexible shoes |
| Cupsole (stitched or cemented) | Upper set into a moulded rubber cup sole | Court, lifestyle and high-top sneakers |
| Vulcanised | Rubber cured onto the upper with heat and pressure | Canvas and skate-style shoes |
| Blake | Upper, insole and sole stitched through from inside | Lightweight formal shoes |
| Goodyear welted | Welt stitched to upper and insole, sole stitched to welt | Formal shoes and boots |
| Moulded / direct-injection | Sole moulded directly onto the upper or as one piece | Flip-flops, slippers, some boots |
Construction availability depends on the style and is confirmed per project; some constructions are produced with specialist partner workshops.
Branding without new tooling
- Printed or embossed insole logo
- Woven or printed tongue and heel labels
- Embroidered or printed logos on the upper
- Branded box, tissue and swing tags
Branding that needs tooling
- Logo moulded into the outsole (needs a mould)
- Debossed metal or rubber badges (needs a die)
- Custom-shaped TPU or rubber heel pieces
- Custom eyelets, aglets or hardware
Colours, lasts and packaging are specified per style. Custom lasts, outsole moulds and logo dies are quoted separately before you commit.
Standard vs custom development
How much new development does your style need?
These are qualitative descriptions, not promised timelines. The schedule for your project is set out in the quotation.
Standard development
Starts from components that already exist. Usually fewer sample rounds and lower minimums.
- Existing compatible last
- Stock or existing outsole
- Readily available materials and colours
- Straightforward branding (insole, labels, packaging)
- One or two sample revisions
Custom development
Needs new tooling or specialist work. Expect more sample rounds, tooling costs and higher minimums.
- New last for your fit
- Custom outsole mould in your design
- Unusual construction or specialist components
- Moulded branding or custom hardware
- Several prototype revisions
Cost and production time
What affects cost, MOQ and production time
There is no single footwear price, MOQ or lead time. Your quotation states them for your style, with the options that would make it simpler.
| Factor | Simpler and faster | More complex and longer |
|---|---|---|
| Product complexity | Few panels, simple construction | Many panels, overlays, specialist construction |
| Material availability | Stocked materials and colours | Special grades, custom colours, long-lead materials |
| Tooling | Existing last and stock sole | New last, custom outsole mould, logo dies |
| Colours and sizes | One or two colourways, core sizes | Many colourways across a full size run |
| Branding | Printed insole and labels | Moulded logos, custom hardware, special packaging |
| Sampling revisions | Clear brief, one or two rounds | Design changes between rounds |
| Order quantity | Quantity meets material and tooling minimums | Below minimums: surcharges or stock components |
What drives each part of your quotation
Sample costsSample charges depend on how much has to be made new.
- Number of sample rounds and types
- New lasts, sole moulds or dies needed for samples
- Specialist materials bought in small quantities
MOQMinimums come from tooling, materials and set-up, not a fixed number.
- Size-specific sole moulds and lasts
- Material minimums per colour
- Number of colourways and sizes
Lead timesTime depends on development, materials and order size.
- Sample rounds before approval
- Material and component lead times
- Order quantity and production schedule
Custom toolingNew tooling adds cost and time but makes the product yours.
- Custom lasts
- Outsole moulds per size
- Cutting dies, logo dies and moulded badges
Material sourcingStocked materials are faster and cheaper than special orders.
- Stocked versus made-to-order materials
- Custom colours and finishes
- Supplier location and minimums
ComplexityMore parts and operations mean more cost and time.
- Number of panels and overlays
- Construction method
- Protective or specialist components
BrandingPrinted branding is simple; moulded branding needs tooling.
- Printed or embossed insoles and labels
- Moulded outsole logos and badges
- Custom packaging
QuantityLarger runs spread tooling and set-up costs.
- Pairs per style and colour
- Size breakdown
- Repeat orders on the same specification
ShippingDelivery terms and method change landed cost and timing.
- Incoterms (EXW, FOB, CIF, DAP, DDP)
- Sea, air or courier
- Destination duties and documents
Minimum order quantities come from size-specific tooling (lasts and sole moulds), material minimums per colour and production set-up. Using stock soles, existing lasts and fewer colourways is usually the quickest way to lower them.
Quality control
Checked against your approved sample at every stage
- 01
Approved standard
The approved pre-production sample and specification define what is correct.
- 02
Material inspection
Incoming leathers, textiles, soles and trims checked against approved swatches.
- 03
In-line checks
Cutting, stitching, lasting and sole attachment checked while production runs.
- 04
Final inspection
Finished pairs checked visually and against key measurements before packing.
- 05
Testing where required
Laboratory tests arranged through external laboratories for specific properties or markets.
| Check | What is inspected |
|---|---|
| Stitching | Stitch length, tension, alignment and seam ends |
| Bonding and sole attachment | Bond lines, alignment, gaps and adhesive marks |
| Materials | Colour, thickness and grain against approved swatches |
| Size and fit | Length and key measurements per size against the size set |
| Finish | Marks, residue, thread ends, symmetry and pairing |
| Packaging | Box labels, barcodes, carton assortment and marks |
Shipping preparation
Packing, documents and delivery terms
- Pairs wrapped, boxed and labelled to your specification
- Barcodes and size labels supplied by you or prepared to your format
- Export cartons with assortment and shipping marks for your warehouse
- Commercial invoice, packing list and certificate of origin where required
- Your nominated inspection agency can inspect before shipment
- Samples are usually sent by international courier
| Term | What it means |
|---|---|
| EXW | Goods made available at our premises; you arrange all transport |
| FOB | Delivered on board at the port of export; you arrange onward freight |
| CIF | Freight and insurance paid to the destination port |
| DAP | Delivered to a named place; you handle import duties |
| DDP | Delivered with duties paid, quoted only where feasible |
Delivery terms are confirmed in each quotation (Incoterms® 2020).
FAQ
Manufacturing questions
What is your minimum order quantity?
There is no single footwear MOQ. It depends on the last, the sole (stock or custom mould), material minimums and colourways. Your MOQ is stated in the quotation, with options that would lower it.
How long does development and production take?
It depends on tooling, materials and the number of sample rounds. We do not publish a standard lead time; the schedule for your project is set out in the quotation.
Can you work from a reference shoe?
Yes, for fit, construction and quality level. We do not copy protected designs, distinctive trade dress, logos or trademarks.
Do I need a complete tech pack?
No. A tech pack speeds things up, but sketches, reference photos or a physical sample are enough to start. We ask for anything missing during the technical review.
Are samples charged?
Sample charges and payment terms are stated in the quotation before any sample work starts.
Can our own inspection agency check the goods?
Yes. Third-party inspection by your nominated agency can be arranged during production or before shipment.
Do you hold product certifications?
No certification is claimed. Laboratory testing can be arranged through external laboratories where your product or market requires it; certification is a separate process with an accredited body.
Are our designs kept confidential?
Yes. Your designs, patterns and tooling are used only for your orders.
Six-step quotation request
Ready to start? Send your design and requirements.
Tell us the style, size run, materials and branding. Questions adapt to the footwear type, and you can attach tech packs and reference photos.
- 01Buyer informationCompany and contact details
- 02Footwear requirementsCategory, materials and construction
- 03Quantity & sizingPairs, size system and size-by-colour matrix
- 04Sampling & developmentSamples, tech pack, files and packaging
- 05Shipping & commercialDestination, Incoterms, timing and price
- 06Review & submitCheck, confirm and send