KF-FRM-002Formal & Business Footwear
Derby Shoes
A black plain-toe leather Derby with open lacing and a stacked heel: the versatile business shoe that fits a wider range of feet than an Oxford.
- OEM to your design
- ODM development
- Private label
- Samples before bulk
Product overview
About derby shoes
The Derby has open lacing: the quarters are stitched on top of the vamp, so the shoe opens wider and suits higher insteps. The reference shows black plain-toe leather with a stacked heel.
Its versatility makes it the base of many business ranges. Smooth leathers dress it up; grained, suede or rubber-soled versions take it toward smart-casual.
Construction options match the Oxford: cemented at accessible price points, Blake or welted for premium lines subject to feasibility.
OEM: your design
Send your last or a sample; we match leather and construction.
ODM: developed with you
Share references; we propose last, leather and sole options.
Design characteristics
- Open lacing with quarters over the vamp
- Plain toe
- Smooth polished leather
- Stacked heel
- Balanced, slightly rounder last
- Typical applications
- Business and office footwear · Smart-casual ranges · Corporate uniform programmes · Everyday formal wear
- Target buyers
- Business footwear brands · Menswear brands · Uniform suppliers · Wholesale distributors
Materials and construction
Materials and construction for this style
Only options technically suited to this style are listed. Availability is confirmed in your quotation.
- Typical
- Usual for this style (industry norm)
- Development option
- Possible option, confirmed at quotation and sampling
- Feasibility to confirm
- Needs factory feasibility confirmation before it can be offered
| Full-grain leather | Calf leather main upper. | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Corrected-grain leather | Uniform programmes. | Development option |
| Suede | Smart-casual suede Derbies. | Development option |
| Leather lining | Leather lining. | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Textile lining | Economical alternative. | Development option |
| Leather sock liner | Leather sock liner. | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Removable footbed | Comfort footbed for uniform shoes. | Development option |
| Leather sole | Leather sole. | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Rubber | Rubber dress sole. | Typical |
| PU outsole | Light PU sole. | Development option |
| Cemented construction | Cemented leather or rubber sole. | Typical |
|---|---|---|
| Blake stitching | Blake stitching. | Feasibility to confirm |
| Goodyear welt construction | Goodyear welt. | Feasibility to confirm |
| Reinforcement and edge finishing | Edge burnishing and counters. | Typical |
Construction methods are explained on the manufacturing page. No method is presented as an in-house capability unless confirmed in your quotation.
Customisation and branding
What you can customise
Upper material
Leather or suede
Colour combinations
Black, browns, burgundy
Last and toe shape
Toe shape
Heel height and shape
Heel height
Edge finishing
Edge finish
Eyelets and speed hooks
Eyelet count
Lace types
Dress laces
Insoles
Comfort insole options
Branding without new tooling
- Insole printing. Logo printed or hot-stamped on the sock liner.
- Heel branding. Printed, embroidered, embossed or rubber-badge branding on the heel counter or tab.
- Woven labels. Woven tongue, side or pull-loop labels; minimums set by the label supplier.
- Custom shoeboxes. Printed boxes to your artwork; minimums set by the box printer.
- Tissue paper. Plain or printed tissue wrap inside the box.
- Hangtags. Printed swing tags attached to the pair.
- Barcode labels. EAN/UPC labels on boxes or polybags, from codes the buyer supplies.
- Carton markings. Shipping marks, size breakdown and destination printed or labelled on export cartons.
Branding that needs tooling
- Debossed and heat-stamped logos. A die presses the logo into the surface, optionally with foil.
- Embossed logos. Heat and pressure with a metal die raise the logo on leather or synthetic.
Custom lasts, outsole moulds, cutting dies and branding tools may add tooling costs and raise minimum quantities. They are quoted separately before you commit.
Sizing and specifications
Sizing and technical specifications
Size conversions are approximate and vary by last and brand; they are not a production grading chart, and your own brand size chart replaces them if you have one. Technical measurements are set on your last and samples, recorded on the approved sample and controlled in bulk.
Open lacing accommodates higher insteps; standard and wide fittings possible.
Size charts: Men's sizes, Women's sizes
Men's sizes
Typical men's range EU 39–47; smaller or larger sizes on request where the last allows.
| EU | UK | US men's | Foot length (mm) | Foot length (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 39 | 6 | 7 | 250 | 25.0 |
| 40 | 6.5 | 7.5 | 255 | 25.5 |
| 41 | 7.5 | 8.5 | 260 | 26.0 |
| 42 | 8 | 9 | 265 | 26.5 |
| 43 | 9 | 10 | 275 | 27.5 |
| 44 | 9.5 | 10.5 | 280 | 28.0 |
| 45 | 10.5 | 11.5 | 290 | 29.0 |
| 46 | 11 | 12 | 295 | 29.5 |
| 47 | 12 | 13 | 305 | 30.5 |
Women's sizes
Typical women's range EU 35–42; developed on a women's last, not a scaled men's last.
| EU | UK | US women's | Foot length (mm) | Foot length (cm) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 35 | 2.5 | 5 | 225 | 22.5 |
| 36 | 3.5 | 6 | 230 | 23.0 |
| 37 | 4 | 6.5 | 235 | 23.5 |
| 38 | 5 | 7.5 | 240 | 24.0 |
| 39 | 6 | 8.5 | 250 | 25.0 |
| 40 | 6.5 | 9 | 255 | 25.5 |
| 41 | 7.5 | 10 | 260 | 26.0 |
| 42 | 8 | 10.5 | 265 | 26.5 |
How to measure foot length
- 01Stand on a sheet of paper with full weight on the foot, heel against a wall.
- 02Mark the tip of the longest toe and measure from the wall to the mark in millimetres.
- 03Measure both feet and use the longer one; measure later in the day when feet are largest.
- 04Compare with the foot-length column, not the shoe's outside length.
Technical measurements for this style
| Dimension | For this style |
|---|---|
| Insole length | Set by the last |
| Ball girth | Width fitting (standard, wide) |
| Instep girth | Fit over the instep |
| Heel width | Heel seat and hold |
| Heel height | Stacked or rubber heel height |
| Toe spring | Last toe spring |
| Weight per pair | Measured on approved samples |
| Size grading | Agreed on the size set |
| Construction tolerances | Agreed before bulk |
Values are set in development; no figures are published.
Sampling, production and quality
From sample to bulk order
Sampling charges, MOQ and timing are quoted per project. The full development route is explained on the manufacturing page.
Sampling for this style
- Proto sample to confirm design, pattern and construction
- Fit sample on the agreed last, checked on wearers in the core size
- Size set across the full size run to confirm grading
- Pre-production sample approved as the sealed bulk standard
MOQ for this style
- Uniform programmes in one colour allow efficient planning across a wide size run.
Quality checks for this style
- Quarter alignment over the vamp
- Lace facings symmetrical
Packaging
- Tissue and shoe bags; bulk packing for uniform orders.
Testing and compliance
Frameworks relevant to this style. Obligations depend on where and how the product is sold, and the brand placing it on the market carries them. General information, not legal advice.
EU REACH restrictions (Annex XVII)Market obligation
Restricts chemicals in articles sold in the EU, including chromium VI in leather in contact with skin (entry 47, limit 3 mg/kg), certain azo dyes, PAHs in rubber parts and dimethyl fumarate. Leather and component suppliers' test reports are collected per order where a buyer requires them.
EU footwear labelling (Directive 94/11/EC)Market obligation
Footwear sold in the EU must indicate the material of the upper, the lining and sock, and the outsole, using the directive's pictograms or wording. Labels are produced to the buyer's market requirements.
EU General Product Safety Regulation (EU) 2023/988Market obligation
Applies since 13 December 2024 to consumer products placed on the EU market, including traceability information on the product or packaging. The obligations sit with the economic operator placing the product on the market; we supply the production information they need.
UK footwear composition labellingMarket obligation
The UK keeps equivalent requirements for indicating the composition of upper, lining and sock, and outsole on footwear sold to consumers.
Physical test methods (ISO footwear methods)Optional test, on request
Commonly requested tests include whole-shoe upper-to-sole adhesion (ISO 17708), outsole abrasion (ISO 20871), outsole flex resistance (ISO 17707), upper flex resistance (ISO 17694) and colourfastness of footwear components (ISO 17700). Tests are run by external laboratories on request; no results are published until reports exist.
Leather chemical testingOptional test, on request
Chromium VI (EN ISO 17075), formaldehyde and pH testing of leather can be arranged with the tannery or an external lab for buyers who require reports.
Khairay Footwear does not state any certification, approval or test result for this style unless documentation exists for your order.
Sampling, quality control and shipping explainedFAQ
Derby Shoes: questions buyers ask
Why choose a Derby over an Oxford?
Open lacing fits a wider range of feet and suits both formal and smart-casual styling.
Can the Derby have a rubber sole?
Yes, rubber or PU soles suit everyday business and uniform wear.
Is a suede Derby possible?
Yes, suede versions bridge into smart-casual.
Can you supply uniform programmes?
Yes; uniform orders are quoted on volume, colour and size spread.
Which constructions are available?
Cemented is typical; Blake and welted are subject to feasibility.
Can you match our existing last?
Yes, from a sample shoe or last specification.
Which constructions do you offer for formal shoes?
Cemented construction is typical. Blake-stitched and Goodyear-welted constructions are subject to feasibility and may involve partners; we confirm this before quoting.
What information do you need for a formal-shoe quotation?
Style, last or sample, leather, sole type, construction preference, size range including fittings, quantities, branding and packaging.
Can we submit our own design?
Yes, with or without choosing one of these reference styles.
Related reference styles
Related styles
KF-FRM-001
Oxford Shoes
KF-FRM-004
Business-Casual Shoes
KF-FRM-003
Leather Loafers
KF-CAS-007
Smart-Casual Rubber-Sole Shoes
KF-FRM-002 · Formal & Business Footwear
Develop this footwear style for your brand
The quotation form opens with formal and KF-FRM-002 selected. You can change any specification, or upload an entirely different design, tech pack or sample photos.